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Our search for HEC incident sites and access to the old trading port were hampered by the navy. While we had the blessing of the army, the main sites we needed to visit were not controlled by them. We waited around the guarded entrances and baked in the hot car while Major X tried to work things out with the navy officers. No luck. The village we wanted to visit to interview rural farmers was deemed too dangerous because of uncleared mines. And we didn’t have the proper letter to get access to the ancient port. Instead we travelled to other areas not necessarily related to elephants but were controlled by the army. We began at a devastated Portuguese fort in Mannar Town.

The army held their ground here during the conflict years while the LTTE held their line not far away in the thick jungle.

It is hard to tell if the bulk of the devastation comes from the recent war or from centuries of decay, but the empty ammo boxes and additional sand bag fortifications seems to indicate the recent battles against the Sea Tigers took its toll on the fort.

We began the day by visiting the Thiruketheeswaram temple, an ancient Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Siva tucked away behind the high officers quarters, and past a heavily guarded airstrip. Our timing was perfect. We expected to pass by and film an empty structure, but we arrived right as the morning ceremonies were starting. It was something out of a dream. In the midst of tremendous conflict, a small contingent of worshippers were keeping their tradition alive. It was mandatory to take off our shirts and shoes before we entered. After filming for some time, we were asked to join the devotees in the ceremony.

They began by walking the perimeter of the courtyard, stopping along the way to pay respects to the various Gods that line the walls, contained in their own individual shrines. As they walk the circumference, they stop to pay respect to the holy cow along the way.

A torch is carried along with them, and at certain points it is extinguished, and at other times it is re-lit. By the end, everyone gathers in the central chamber, driven by heavy methodical drumming and the smell of incense. Hands are passed over the flames coming from the torch. The milk of the holy cow is drunk from a golden cup, and the dot is placed on the forehead for divine sight. It ends with the devotees offering food and garlands to the holy cow. This completely unexpected stop was probably one of the more memorable ones.

Afterwards we filled up on an incredible Indian breakfast before heading back out to film. The majority of the day was spent waiting to be granted access by the navy. In the space in between we roamed the fishermen shacks and caused a scene with our cameras while Ravi and the Major looked for crabs for our last supper in Sri Lanka. The virgin mary appeared in many of the buildings since the fishermen are predominantly Catholic. Stray cats follow the strong smell of fish to look for any scraps that get discarded. We had our final meal of spicy crab curry outside the ancient Madhu Church, a centuries old center of worship for Sri Lankan Catholics.

Exhausted, we said our goodbyes to the SLWCS team, and took the roller coaster ride back to Colombo in the middle of the night to make our flight in the morning.

Tags: documentary, production, sri lanka